Alexander McQueen A/W 2004 “Pantheon as Lecum”
After the grand showmanship displayed in his S/S 2004 show “Deliverance”, Lee McQueen was going to surprise the fashion world by giving them what they claimed they wanted; a pared-down, simple runway show with a focus on craftsmanship. Recently approached to be the new designer for Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche line, McQueen chose not to show up to the interview.
“I am such a fan of Saint Laurent that my heart would break if I damaged that house…I need to be doing McQueen with my eyes shut.”
It’s possible that this event influenced the collection, which conveyed a sense of rebirth. The title of the show “Pantheon as Lecum”, roughly translates to Pantheon to Adam, perhaps a reference to the first Man, and again, a reference to birth. Models with faces blanked out with foundation, and hair tightly curled and short, emerged in clothing that mixed Grecian draping with Star Trek-esque detailing. Everything from soft jersey to embroidered leather was highly designed in the McQueen silhouette. The color palette was kept strictly to beiges, browns, and deep purples.
Perhaps in an attempt to please the critics who had slammed Lee for his elaborate runway shows, Pantheon as Lecum was almost entirely exempt from dramatics. The last model emerged in a stiff, high-necked gown with an elaborate silver neckpiece, and stood in the middle of the circular runway, where she was ensconced in flickering lights; almost as if she were about to be beamed up to a spaceship, completing the journey.